Neighbor to Neighbor

Dappled in patches throughout LV/ES we have some secretive friends who keep to themselves and act generally like good neighbors. These polite residents are the Couch’s Spadefoot Toads.  They spend much of their time deep underground where they can find moisture, although they do come out on occasion to go on late evening strolls in search of insects. 

These funny amphibians are surprisingly successful throughout dry deserts, living in regions that seem like the last place you would expect to see a frog. Once they reach adulthood, Couch’s Spadefoots can survive without rain for years! They do have one major drawback, however, that keeps them from being widespread across the area, and from being the world’s best neighbor: they are entirely dependent on standing water pools that last at least one week.

When the monsoon rains arrive, this is when the toads truly come alive! Studies have shown that the sounds and vibrations of heavy rain and thunder bring out the toads in force, and they meet at the all-important temporary ponds for massive toad blowout parties! After the rains, the sound of the toads’ calls can be almost deafening. I enjoy the toad orchestra, though it definitely lowers their score as neighbors.

Eggs are laid the first night after the rains and, in just 24 hours, tadpoles will hatch! Most impressively, in as little time as one week, the tadpoles will be fully metamorphosed into tiny toads.

The moral of this story is that toads rely on these temporary pools, so it is very important for us to make sure we don’t block off pools or waterways, and make sure the toads can reach them. The toads will live in our yards, and even in parking lots; all they ask is to get their annual party to ensure that there will be a next generation of 4-star neighbors.

If you have a seasonal pond on your property — or somewhere near you — please keep the toads in mind before you make a wall or berm, and they will thank you! Chance Stevens! chancestevens123@icloud.com

Summer Stories

This summer I have had quite the leave of absence, and I am happy to announce that it is over! I have been traveling throughout the United States for the last three months (far too long) and am now finally ready to return to the sweltering desert that I missed so much. This week, I will tell of some of the more interesting events of my summer. 

Around mid-June we left Baja for Central Oregon, where we would spend the first month or so. When we arrived, we were greeted by an arctic winter: roughly 60 degrees. It took some time to adjust, particularly because it insisted on going full-winter mode and snowed a few days later, coinciding perfectly with my first day counseling at an outdoor nature school. 

Our travels then took us to New England, where I found some incredible creatures, such as my first milk snake and many large grumpy water snakes that had evidently not had their coffee yet.

We then cleverly traveled back across the country to Northern California to finish up some business at a Mexican Consulate and visit friends. Here we had an amazing time discovering an old barn filled with interesting creatures such as racers, gopher snakes, ring neck snakes, alligator lizards, skinks, garter snakes and even a shed from a rubber boa. Unfortunately, getting there involved a steep, long hike up a huge hill, but of course I climbed it as often as I could. 

Finally, on the way back down to Baja, we stopped in San Diego to visit the San Diego Natural History Museum, which deserves a column of its own. – chancestevens123@icloud.com

Desert Rosy Boa

In the last few weeks, the weather has finally switched and, from now until October, the snake activity occurs chiefly after sunset. For weeks during the spring, I had been going on looking-for-reptile missions after dark many times — almost all complete flops — but recently my dad and I struck gold and found a Desert Rosy Boa (Lichanura trivirgata)!

In Southern Baja, rosy boas are beautiful snakes with cream and black stripes and cute faces. Well, at least that is my opinion. They are completely harmless, slow and relatively small, growing to about 91 centimeters (or 3 feet). These boas are usually nocturnal, although sometimes they will come out in the evening or occasionally in the day. Their diet consists mostly of small rodents, but they will eat small birds and reptiles once in a while. The snake we found was just exiting a hole in the road when we found it, and I believe they spend much of their time underground.

Rosy boas are some of the most laid-back snakes in North America, as they are slow, harmless and would never think of biting. We are very lucky to share our town with them and, if we do our part, hopefully we will be able to coexist with these amazing creatures far into the future. – chancestevens123@icloud.com

Supporting Local Fauna

This week I am presenting my column a little differently, as I do not have a new species to discuss. Here are a couple things that can be done to help the local fauna when developing property and building houses in LV/ES. 

  1. Leave Leaf Litter – A great way to help out our reptilian friends is to leave leaf litter! This is crucial for just about all lizards and small snakes. I see many people leaving bushes and trees to help animals, which is definitely a step in the right direction; however, raking all the leaves out from under the bushes and trees takes away the habitat and, therefore, no habitat, no lizards. My suggestion is to rake your paths and hangout areas, but leave the less-used portions of your property natural and un-raked.
  2. Leave Holes in Walls – Leave places for animals to get through your walls. Many people in this area have huge concrete walls surrounding their property and, although these are obstacles, reptiles can manage fine with just a little help. A great way to let reptiles pass through is to leave a small gap on the bottom of the wall along the sand line. It could be just a tiny hole 3 x 3 inches (8 x 8 centimeters). Even an opening this small can be a huge help. And you will likely be rewarded! If you watch the hole for a while, you will hopefully get to see it being used.

If you are worried about holes because you don’t want rattlesnakes coming onto your property, think about it this way: If a snake comes through your gate, it will likely cross to the other side and try to find a way to keep moving. When it hits a wall, it will search for an exit; if it can’t find one, it will have no choice but to backtrack or just hang out. So now you have an uninvited guest, trapped in your space, helping itself to your amenities, and rodents. – If you want to talk or walk reptiles, email ChanceStevens123@icloud.com

San Lucan Alligator Lizard

San Lucan Alligator Lizards (Elgaria paucicarinata) are striking, sneaky and extremely long-tailed lizards that inhabit many of the mountainous regions throughout the Baja Cape Region. 

Here in LV/ES, alligator lizards are not really present. However, just above us in the hills of Rancho Cacachilas, alligator lizards live their secretive lives. They can be found throughout the Sierra de La Laguna, as well as a few other mountainous regions. They like to live in well-vegetated areas and grassy habitats.

These lizards are typically brown with some red or black markings. They have large mouths and expressions that perfectly mix those of grumpy old men and plotting evil geniuses. They are typically diurnal (active during the day), except for particularly hot days, when they may emerge at dusk or later. They like to tuck their front legs against their bodies and sort of slither through grass. Many individuals have very long tails, sometimes twice as long as the bodies, although they will drop them quite easily. Alligator lizards eat mostly insects, and those of larger carriage may even eat small mammals and birds. 

For people from the West Coast of the USA and Canada, alligator lizards might look familiar since they live throughout much of California, Oregon and Washington, as well as southern British Columbia. Although these West Coasters are different species, they are all quite similar in appearance and behavior. – If you want to talk or walk reptiles, email ChanceStevens123@icloud.com

Desert Iguana

 It is now May, and reptiles are out in abundance, including the exuberant Desert Iguanas. (Dipsosaurus dorsalis). From late spring to early fall, they are arguably the most common lizards in Baja. During the winter months, they burrow down into the earth and seem to evaporate out of existence.

Desert Iguanas exhibit one of the most dramatic seasonal changes that I have ever witnessed. For example, last June, on a day trip to Isla Cerralvo, I could not take a step without scaring at least one iguana, and then that iguana would run for the nearest bush and stir up three more iguanas. Such insanity was a big surprise because, when we had last gone to Cerralvo just a few months earlier in March, I hadn’t seen even one iguana. I can’t help but think that, in the winter, Cerralvo’s earth must be 50% iguana.

Desert Iguanas are somewhat large lizards that range from cream-colored to grayish-brown in appearance. Individuals can change colors a little, depending on their temperature. They eat mostly leaves, buds and flowers, although they will occasionally eat insects as well. When they are out, you can see tons of tracks littering the dirt roads, which are made as they drag their large tails through the sand, scampering from bush to bush.

Part-time residents of La Ventana may never see Desert Iguanas, since these lizards are just as seasonal as many of the humans.  – If you want to talk or walk reptiles, email ChanceStevens123@icloud.com

Reptiles of the Northwest

This week, I am visiting some awesome friends in Northern California. I know many winter residents of La Ventana return to California, Oregon, Washington or British Columbia, so this week’s column is about the reptiles of the Northwest and how they compare with the reptiles of Baja.

As I am originally from Bend, Oregon, the reptiles of the High Desert are close to my heart, so we will start with them. The more arid climate regions of the three US states host Baja equivalent reptiles with some slight variation: racers replace coachwhips; gopher snakes lose their vibrant oranges and reds; rattlesnakes get moodier; and fence lizards are everywhere! Even the little Short-Horned Lizards are similar to the Baja Horned Lizards.

Moving on, we enter the enchanting forests extending throughout much of the Northwest. From Oregon to Baja California Sur, California King Snakes thrive for over 1,000 miles. Ring-necked snakes hang out under bark and rocks, as well as garter snakes – so many garter snakes! Exhibiting a similarly impressive show of adaptability are the gopher snakes, which range from BC, Canada, to BCS, Mexico. Little rubber boas also inhabit the forests throughout the region and are related to the rosy boas of Mexico.

Although these reptiles are all different, they share one common fact: throughout the entire West Coast, only rattlesnakes are dangerous. – If you want to talk or walk reptiles, email ChanceStevens123@icloud.com

Baja California Coachwhips

It is now mid-April and the snakes have truly emerged. Here in La Ventana and El Sargento, the most common snakes are definitely Baja California Coachwhips (Masticophis fuliginosus). I have already written a column about coachwhips but I think it is time to revisit them. 

Coachwhips are long, thin snakes that come in a variety of colors; around here, they are usually all black, though they can be yellow, silver, white, brown or even dark green. These little lightning bolts are truly expeditive, achieving nearly the most electric speeds of any snake. 

Coachwhips are beautiful snakes and completely harmless, although they are quite large, sometimes reaching over two meters (or seven feet) in length. Interestingly, coachwhips are strictly diurnal, meaning they are only active during the day. They have large eyes and actively hunt their prey, even during the heat of the day. They seem to prefer lizards, although they will eat rodents, amphibians, birds, large insects and other snakes.

If you see a coachwhip, you will likely only have a minute to observe it, as they seem to always have a convenient exit solution, utilizing either adjacent brush piles or spontaneous teleportation.

A good example of this took place a few days ago when I was looking for snakes above El Sargento with my friend. We were driving down a small calle near Pitaya when we saw a fresh snake track spanning the road. We followed the track to an isolated bush in the middle of a cleared field and saw a young coachwhip laid out underneath it. I approached the snake, and it let me get within about two feet, before launching itself into an alternate dimension. We searched unsuccessfully everywhere around the bush and ultimately concluded that the snake no longer existed. We then continued on down the road. 

We came back about 20 minutes later to do one final search. We checked the bush thoroughly and found nothing. I then noticed a small brush pile, far across the clearing, and went to investigate. Sure enough, there was our coachwhip sitting smugly in the outer branches.

We spent the next half hour relocating the brush pile and finally caught Houdini. – If you want to talk or walk reptiles, email ChanceStevens123@icloud.com

Red Diamond Rattlesnakes

Red Diamond Rattlesnakes (Crotalus ruber) are beautiful, large and amazing snakes. They are quite common right now, crossing roads and paths all over Baja. It is April and the snake season has truly begun! 

If you are a mountain biker or runner, or find yourself driving on dirt roads through the desert, you probably have already seen some kind of snake this year. Spring is generally the best time to see snakes, and we are in the middle of it! It is still relatively chilly at night, forcing many of the larger snakes to move around during the day, including rattlesnakes, gopher snakes, rat snakes, king snakes and even rosy boas! Strictly day-active snakes are also common right now, including patch-nosed snakes, whipsnakes and ever-present coachwhips (the big black snakes found all over La Ventana).

Of all of the snakes here, the only dangerous ones are the rattlesnakes. REPEAT: The only dangerous snakes in La Ventana are the rattlesnakes.  

We have three species of rattlesnakes in the Cape Region of Baja, but this column is about the Red Diamond Rattler. These gorgeous snakes are quite happy to be left alone and, in many cases, will just slither away. If they feel theatrical, however, they may rear up and rattle their tails. In that case, they will bite if you get too close. Keep in mind that rattlesnakes don’t want to bite you, because venom takes a lot of energy to produce, and they don’t get any benefit from biting you. Their venom is best used for catching mice. Rattlesnakes may move forward a bit when in their coil, but they will practically never chase you. If you just give them their space, then they will eventually stop rattling, and go back to whatever they were doing.

In the extremely rare case that a rattlesnake bites, this is what you should do: STAY CALM and try to call for help, and go to the nearest hospital with anti-venom, as quickly as possible. For La Ventana residents, the closest hospital with anti-venom is in La Paz.

There is confusion and a lot of misleading information about what to do, including sucking out the venom or cutting out the bitten area. Those are very bad ideas, and I would suggest not trying them.

Hopefully this was helpful. Happy Easter! – If you want to talk or walk reptiles, email ChanceStevens123@icloud.com

Sierra de La Laguna: Part 3 of 3

Wait! Which way to go? There were many paths traversing the valley, but which one led back to camp? Uncertain, I chose one, headed down the trail, crossed a stream, then another stream, until the valley started to curve. Everything looked different. I turned around and started to backtrack. After a very stressful 10 minutes, I finally recognized a rock formation and soon arrived back at camp. Phew!

A cool lizard we found in the valley was the elusive Baja California Night Lizard, a small and interesting lizard that inhabits only the high forests of the Sierra de La Laguna. 

The next morning — day three —  we headed out of the valley towards the summit. After a few hours of uphill hiking, we finally reached the top, which was rocky with a large white tower. We spent about an hour marveling at the incredible view, highlighted by the Sea of Cortez on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other.

On our way back down, at first we followed a confusing bushwhack in an attempted shortcut that was supposedly a “trail,” but ultimately decided to retrace our steps instead. At the valley, as I was going to the stream to filter water, I heard a rustling sound and looked down to see an alligator lizard rolling around in the grass. (Yes! There is GRASS in the valley!) I realized that something was biting the lizard and, after a minute, a snake emerged, holding the lizard in its mouth. To my surprise, it was a rare Baja Striped Racer, a fast-moving, day-active snake with two yellow stripes down its back. True to its name, the snake raced out of the grass with the lizard still in its mouth, launched itself into the nearby rock outcrop, then slithered into a hole to eat its prize.

The rest of the trip consisted of knee-killing downhills and a beautiful night back at the swimming hole, before a long descent back into civilization. Overall, it was an exciting, strenuous and eventful trek, after which it took several days to recover. I would definitely do it all again. The Sierra de La Laguna is a magical place. – If you want to talk or walk reptiles, email ChanceStevens123@icloud.com