When I first arrived to El Sargento, I had no friends, and the Green Jacks regularly kept me company on my daily snorkels; they would follow me. They are known to follow paddle boarders, snorkelers and swimmers. But this bunch, seemed particularly conscientious. When I hit the water at 8am, they were there to follow me. There’s a clip of them following a Sierra, so maybe I am just a great big fish to them. Who knows? But what I do know, it was great fun to swim along in the middle of a school of active fish. Here’s video from the end of July 2023 of Little Green Jack School swimming very close at times, in a feeding frenzy. School of Little Green Jacks, La Ventana Bay (William desertplayer@hotmail.com)
La Ventana Stories
The Amazing Grace of Fish
The Amazing Grace of Fish: Early in my fish documentation project, I noticed patterns of behavior that a variety of fish share. One is rubbing against the sand. I was intrigued watching how fish propel themselves as they swim. So I focused the camera on those behaviors and made this video. The piano melody that accompanies this video, I heard every morning, filling the music room at Singing Bridge Performance Art Lodge in Cummington, MA. Out the windows, once green leaves, turned red and yellow, then would glide in the wind, landing along banks of the Westfield. Daniel’s melody grew on me. Today, it brings me back to that delightful time visiting New England in the fall. Watch the video! William desertplayer@hotmail.com
Supporting Local Fauna
This week I am presenting my column a little differently, as I do not have a new species to discuss. Here are a couple things that can be done to help the local fauna when developing property and building houses in LV/ES.
- Leave Leaf Litter – A great way to help out our reptilian friends is to leave leaf litter! This is crucial for just about all lizards and small snakes. I see many people leaving bushes and trees to help animals, which is definitely a step in the right direction; however, raking all the leaves out from under the bushes and trees takes away the habitat and, therefore, no habitat, no lizards. My suggestion is to rake your paths and hangout areas, but leave the less-used portions of your property natural and un-raked.
- Leave Holes in Walls – Leave places for animals to get through your walls. Many people in this area have huge concrete walls surrounding their property and, although these are obstacles, reptiles can manage fine with just a little help. A great way to let reptiles pass through is to leave a small gap on the bottom of the wall along the sand line. It could be just a tiny hole 3 x 3 inches (8 x 8 centimeters). Even an opening this small can be a huge help. And you will likely be rewarded! If you watch the hole for a while, you will hopefully get to see it being used.
If you are worried about holes because you don’t want rattlesnakes coming onto your property, think about it this way: If a snake comes through your gate, it will likely cross to the other side and try to find a way to keep moving. When it hits a wall, it will search for an exit; if it can’t find one, it will have no choice but to backtrack or just hang out. So now you have an uninvited guest, trapped in your space, helping itself to your amenities, and rodents. – If you want to talk or walk reptiles, email ChanceStevens123@icloud.com
Eight Eel Species of Baja
Eight Eel Species of Baja. This video introduces eight saltwater eel species living in La Ventana Bay located in the Gulf of California in Baja California Sur, Mexico. There are two eel species I have only seen once over 760 snorkels. Those are the Redsaddled Snake Eel, and the Pacific Snake Eel. The other I rarely see is the Zebra Moray, and when I do see it, it retreats beneath a rock, and stays put for longer than I care to wait. All the rest, not including the Garden Eels I see repeatedly go beneath rocks in search for food. Often a few species of fish can be seen following the eels and waiting for them to reemerge from under the rock or coral. William desertplayer@hotmail.com
San Lucan Alligator Lizard
San Lucan Alligator Lizards (Elgaria paucicarinata) are striking, sneaky and extremely long-tailed lizards that inhabit many of the mountainous regions throughout the Baja Cape Region.
Here in LV/ES, alligator lizards are not really present. However, just above us in the hills of Rancho Cacachilas, alligator lizards live their secretive lives. They can be found throughout the Sierra de La Laguna, as well as a few other mountainous regions. They like to live in well-vegetated areas and grassy habitats.
These lizards are typically brown with some red or black markings. They have large mouths and expressions that perfectly mix those of grumpy old men and plotting evil geniuses. They are typically diurnal (active during the day), except for particularly hot days, when they may emerge at dusk or later. They like to tuck their front legs against their bodies and sort of slither through grass. Many individuals have very long tails, sometimes twice as long as the bodies, although they will drop them quite easily. Alligator lizards eat mostly insects, and those of larger carriage may even eat small mammals and birds.
For people from the West Coast of the USA and Canada, alligator lizards might look familiar since they live throughout much of California, Oregon and Washington, as well as southern British Columbia. Although these West Coasters are different species, they are all quite similar in appearance and behavior. – If you want to talk or walk reptiles, email ChanceStevens123@icloud.com
Portuguese Man O’ War
If you are swimming or snorkeling, be on the lookout for Portuguese Man O’ War. Monday, May 21st, we had a boat load of them in the water during one tide. The most I have seen. The next day, snorkeled at the same time, but a different tide, back to normal. Just a couple seen during a long distance snorkel. William desertplayer@hotmail.com
Desert Iguana
It is now May, and reptiles are out in abundance, including the exuberant Desert Iguanas. (Dipsosaurus dorsalis). From late spring to early fall, they are arguably the most common lizards in Baja. During the winter months, they burrow down into the earth and seem to evaporate out of existence.
Desert Iguanas exhibit one of the most dramatic seasonal changes that I have ever witnessed. For example, last June, on a day trip to Isla Cerralvo, I could not take a step without scaring at least one iguana, and then that iguana would run for the nearest bush and stir up three more iguanas. Such insanity was a big surprise because, when we had last gone to Cerralvo just a few months earlier in March, I hadn’t seen even one iguana. I can’t help but think that, in the winter, Cerralvo’s earth must be 50% iguana.
Desert Iguanas are somewhat large lizards that range from cream-colored to grayish-brown in appearance. Individuals can change colors a little, depending on their temperature. They eat mostly leaves, buds and flowers, although they will occasionally eat insects as well. When they are out, you can see tons of tracks littering the dirt roads, which are made as they drag their large tails through the sand, scampering from bush to bush.
Part-time residents of La Ventana may never see Desert Iguanas, since these lizards are just as seasonal as many of the humans. – If you want to talk or walk reptiles, email ChanceStevens123@icloud.com
Reptiles of the Northwest
This week, I am visiting some awesome friends in Northern California. I know many winter residents of La Ventana return to California, Oregon, Washington or British Columbia, so this week’s column is about the reptiles of the Northwest and how they compare with the reptiles of Baja.
As I am originally from Bend, Oregon, the reptiles of the High Desert are close to my heart, so we will start with them. The more arid climate regions of the three US states host Baja equivalent reptiles with some slight variation: racers replace coachwhips; gopher snakes lose their vibrant oranges and reds; rattlesnakes get moodier; and fence lizards are everywhere! Even the little Short-Horned Lizards are similar to the Baja Horned Lizards.
Moving on, we enter the enchanting forests extending throughout much of the Northwest. From Oregon to Baja California Sur, California King Snakes thrive for over 1,000 miles. Ring-necked snakes hang out under bark and rocks, as well as garter snakes – so many garter snakes! Exhibiting a similarly impressive show of adaptability are the gopher snakes, which range from BC, Canada, to BCS, Mexico. Little rubber boas also inhabit the forests throughout the region and are related to the rosy boas of Mexico.
Although these reptiles are all different, they share one common fact: throughout the entire West Coast, only rattlesnakes are dangerous. – If you want to talk or walk reptiles, email ChanceStevens123@icloud.com
Baja California Coachwhips
It is now mid-April and the snakes have truly emerged. Here in La Ventana and El Sargento, the most common snakes are definitely Baja California Coachwhips (Masticophis fuliginosus). I have already written a column about coachwhips but I think it is time to revisit them.
Coachwhips are long, thin snakes that come in a variety of colors; around here, they are usually all black, though they can be yellow, silver, white, brown or even dark green. These little lightning bolts are truly expeditive, achieving nearly the most electric speeds of any snake.
Coachwhips are beautiful snakes and completely harmless, although they are quite large, sometimes reaching over two meters (or seven feet) in length. Interestingly, coachwhips are strictly diurnal, meaning they are only active during the day. They have large eyes and actively hunt their prey, even during the heat of the day. They seem to prefer lizards, although they will eat rodents, amphibians, birds, large insects and other snakes.
If you see a coachwhip, you will likely only have a minute to observe it, as they seem to always have a convenient exit solution, utilizing either adjacent brush piles or spontaneous teleportation.
A good example of this took place a few days ago when I was looking for snakes above El Sargento with my friend. We were driving down a small calle near Pitaya when we saw a fresh snake track spanning the road. We followed the track to an isolated bush in the middle of a cleared field and saw a young coachwhip laid out underneath it. I approached the snake, and it let me get within about two feet, before launching itself into an alternate dimension. We searched unsuccessfully everywhere around the bush and ultimately concluded that the snake no longer existed. We then continued on down the road.
We came back about 20 minutes later to do one final search. We checked the bush thoroughly and found nothing. I then noticed a small brush pile, far across the clearing, and went to investigate. Sure enough, there was our coachwhip sitting smugly in the outer branches.
We spent the next half hour relocating the brush pile and finally caught Houdini. – If you want to talk or walk reptiles, email ChanceStevens123@icloud.com
Mobula Munkiana
It is that time of the year again! Every spring we have a very special gathering in our front yard: thousands of rays aggregate in a breathtaking spectacle. They are Munk´s pygmy devil ray or Mobula munkiana, locals know them as “tortillas”, because the sound they make when jumping out of the water, reminds the clapping of hands produced while making tortillas.
They are cartilaginous fish, related to sharks, and they inhabit the Eastern Pacific Ocean, from Mexico to Peru. They reach a maximum disc length of 4.2 ft (130 cm), with an average of 3 ft (100cm). They are filter feeders, and they follow the zooplankton blooms, moving around the Baja peninsula with them. This time of the year, they can be seen in our area, when the conditions are ideal for feeding and reproduction. All around the bay, they can be seen swimming gracefully in the water, hundreds of them together, moving their fins like birds flying, it is truly nature´s wonder. But they can also be seen out of the water: moving their wings and gaining enough momentum to propel themselves in acrobatic jumps, sometimes many of them at the same time. Nobody knows exactly why they jump, there are different theories, but I like thinking it is just pure joy.
For years they were fished till they were put in severe danger of extinction. They are very sensitive to overfishing because they have slow reproductive strategies, like many other cartilaginous fishes. They are aplacental viviparous and they only give birth to one pup, after a gestation period of 12 months, so it takes them a long time to recover after the removal of many individuals. Now they are protected, and we have seen increasing numbers, but they are still listed as vulnerable in the IUCN Red List. One of their main threats is bycatch from coastal fishing nets. Swimming with them is a great attraction for ecotourism, making them way more valuable alive than dead and favoring conservation efforts.